Build a DIY Saddle Rack for $5.00

Materials lists:

1) Scrap piece of 2x4 lumber between 18" and 24"

2) #2 Eye Bolt (eye hole is about 1" in diameter)

3) 4" Rope Hook

Tool list:

1) #2 Philips Screw Driver

2) Tape Measure

3) Power Drill.

I use a simple and inexpensive saddle rack to set my saddle on for short periods. It's made up of an old scrap 2x4 about 20" (inches) long, a #2 eye bolt, and a rope hook.  The local hardware store has the eye bolt and rope hook for less than $5.00 total. 
The top board of my stall is a 2x8 board.  I drilled a small pilot hole more or less in the center of the board to make screwing in the eye bolt easier.  I used a 1/8" drill bit which is about half the diameter of the eye bolts screw end.  In the picture to the right, I have the screw eye nearly screwed in all the way.  Once the threads of the eye bolt disappeared, I stopped.  I wanted to allow for a couple turns later for fine tuning.

To make the part the saddle was going to set on, I fastened the rope hook to the narrow side of the 2x4.  I drilled two pilot holes with a drill bit half the diameter of the wood screw to make mounting the rope hook easier.

It is important the rope hook is set back at least an inch from the end of the 2x4.  This accounts for the 1" diameter of the eye bolt's eye which is 1" in diameter.  If the rope hook was run up flush with the end of the 2x4 the saddle rack would have a very bad sag and the saddle would likely slip off.

Once I had my eye bolt screwed in to the proper depth, my rope hook was attached 1 inch back from the edge of the 2x4, I was ready to put the two pieces together.

To prepare the rack for use, the board is set perpendicular to the wall with the rope hook run through the eye bolt.  The 2x4 butt-end is pressed against the stall wall.  The more weight that is added the harder it pushes.  As long as the board I mounted my eye bolt is is firm, my rack will hold up well.  The primary give point is going to be the two wood screws that hold the rope hook.  If they come loose or the board gets damaged, I simply replace it with another 18-20" 2x4.

In the final picture I have the rack set in it's storage position, relatively flush against the wall.